As an island nation, Japan has a deeply rooted culinary culture of eating fish.
Among its many fish preparations, himono—fish that has been dried to preserve it and enhance its flavor—is one of the most familiar and beloved ingredients for Japanese people.
At “Sumibiyaki Shokudo Koganeya,” you can enjoy himono in the form of teishoku, a set meal served with rice and soup.
“うなぎととろさば定食,” Unagi and Toro Saba Teishoku 1,250 JPY (tax included)
Just a ten-minute walk from Shinjuku Station! Convenient access!
Sumibiyaki Shokudo Koganeya is located in the west exit area of JR Shinjuku Station.
It’s about a 10-minute walk from the station, in a business district lined with skyscrapers including the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building.
Exterior of Sumibiyaki Shokudo Koganeya
Slightly removed from the bustle of the east exit area, most visitors are nearby office workers.
The scent of himono grilling over charcoal drifts from the storefront, immediately whetting the appetite.
Charcoal-grilled himono made to order
Charcoal-grilled himono
The main appeal of Sumibiyaki Shokudō Koganeya is that each piece of himono is carefully grilled over charcoal after your order.
The fish comes out crispy on the outside, tender and juicy on the inside, allowing you to fully enjoy the natural umami of the himono.
Most popular! “Aged Sablefish Mirinboshi-yaki Teishoku”
“熟成銀だらの黄金（こがね）みりん干し焼き定食（まぐろブツハーフ小鉢つき）,” Aged Sablefish “Kogane” Mirinboshi-yaki Set Meal (with half portion of diced tuna) 1,480 JPY (tax included)
The signature dish here is the “Aged Sablefish ‘Kogane’ Mirinboshi-yaki Teishoku.”
The sablefish, thick and richly marbled, is sourced from Toyosu Market. It is aged and dried at a processing facility in Tsukiji, then finished with a special mirin-based sauce.
Grilled over charcoal, the sablefish achieves a perfect balance of savory aroma and mild sweetness, pairing beautifully with rice.
This set also includes miso soup, pickles, a small side dish, and a half portion of maguro-butsu (diced tuna), making it a luxurious meal that lets you enjoy both grilled fish and sashimi.
Diced tuna included in the teishoku
Toro saba and unagi kabayaki – a luxurious set meal
Next, there’s the “Unagi and Toro Saba Teishoku.”
This satisfying dish allows you to enjoy juicy toro saba (fatty Pacific mackerel) along with sweet-and-savory kabayaki-style unagi (grilled eel), all in one meal.
(left) kabayaki-style unagi and mackerel (right) featured in the Unagi and Toro Saba Teishoku
The toro saba has just the right amount of salt to enhance its natural flavor, pairing perfectly with rice.
Eating it with the accompanying grated daikon gives a refreshing finish to each bite.
Specially made grated daikon at Sumibiyaki Shokudo Koganeya
The special grated daikon at the restaurant includes red daikon called “Beni Kururi” and kaiware daikon (daikon radish sprouts), giving it a light pink color and a visually appealing accent, as well as a flavor boost.
Enjoy rare himono izakaya-style dishes at night
Sumibiyaki Shokudo Koganeya operates as a teishoku-focused lunch spot and a nighttime izakaya where you can enjoy dishes with alcohol. The teishoku menu is still available in the evening.
One of the most popular dishes is the “Fish Skewers,” made by grilling smaller cuts of dried fish on skewers.
Each piece is cut into bite-sized portions, skewered, and grilled over charcoal, weighing about 30–40 g (about 1.06–1.41 oz) per skewer—easy to enjoy.
They were created in response to diners who find regular himono too large to order in variety, and there are eight different kinds of fish skewers available.
“おまかせ５本盛り,” 5-Skewer Omakase Set 1,080 JPY (tax included)
If you can’t decide what to order, the “5-Skewer Omakase Set” is a great option.
When we visited, the set included “Toro Aji,” (fatty horse mackerel) “Akōdai” (rosefish, a species of rockfish), “Toro Saba,” “Salmon Harasu” (salmon belly), and “Saba Mirin-boshi” (mirin-marinated mackerel). Each is superbly rich in flavor.
The appeal of himono lies in how the drying process concentrates the umami. They pair exceptionally well with sake or shōchū, making them an ideal match for drinks.
At Sumibiyaki Shokudo Koganeya, an otōshi (obligatory table charged dish) is added when you order alcohol in the evening. It comes with their specialty—grated daikon radish mixed with red daikon, a house favorite.
Not only does it complement the fish skewers, but it’s also delicious on its own as a snack with drinks.
“特・こがね屋のいくら飯,” Special Koganeya Ikura Rice 1,100 JPY (tax included)
A perfect ending to your meal – “Special Koganeya Ikura Rice”
A generous serving of soy-marinated ikura (salmon roe) completely covers the rice, topped with a raw egg yolk in the center. Break it and mix it in, and you’ll be rewarded with a rich, velvety flavor that fills your mouth.
Sumibiyaki Shokudo Koganeya is run by a company that handles everything from wholesale and processing to retail of seafood products.
Thanks to this direct supply chain, they’re able to source high-quality himono and serve them at reasonable prices.
In Shinjuku, there aren’t many places where you can enjoy authentic fish set meals both day and night. Even rarer are restaurants that serve himono carefully grilled over charcoal.
At Sumibiyaki Shokudo Koganeya, you’ll rediscover the appeal of Japan’s traditional himono culture. The depth of flavor will surely leave you impressed.
Information
| Name | 炭火焼食堂 こがね屋 Sumibiyakishokudo koganeya |
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| Address | Daikoku Building 1F, 7-8-11 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
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| Access |
Nishi-Shinjuku Station 3-minute walk from Exit D5
Seibu-Shinjuku Station 3-minute walk from Seibu-Shinjuku Station Main Exi
Shinjuku Station（SJK） 7-minute walk from Shinjuku Station West Exit
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| Phone number | 03-6908-9984 |
| Reservations | Accepted Tabelog, ebica |
| Payment |
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| Service charge/Table charge | Service charge (including otōshi) 380 JPY (tax included) only if you order alcohol during dinnertime |
| Hours | Mon-Thur. 11:15-14:30（last order 4:00）, 17:30-22:30（last order: food 21:30, drinks 22:00） Fri. 11:15-14:30（last order 14:00）, 17:30-23:00（last order: food, 22:00, drinks 22:30） Sat. 11:15-14:30（last order 21:30）, 17:00-23:00（last order food 22:00, drinks 22:30） |
| Closed | Sunday & National Holidays |
| Seating | 35 seats 4 counter seats, 31 table seats※カウンター4席、テーブル31席 |
| Smoking | All seats are non-smoking |
| Official website | https://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1304/A130401/13078681/ |
| Other information |
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※Menu contents, prices, store information, etc. are current as of September 2025.
